![]() While the various permeable pavers, gravel etc are permeable, they will not truly function without a deep gravel reservoir below to fill and use to infiltrate with i.e. Design standards for a permeable surface require deep (15"+) of excavation. ![]() What I've been leaning from my work in water quality, from you here, and from landscapers is that base prep particularily with permeable, is the most important step. They'd hold up OK for a walking path, but they're not much fun to walk on either. IMO, these are not a great solution for residential property. Pavers sink more at the points of greatest pressure, with the end result looking as bad as any pothole. (How easily does the weight of a car push a projecting stone down into a gravel drive after a rain?) Unfortunately, the whole paver surface doesn't sink at a uniform rate, so as to keep a decent appearance. Driving on them when the substrate is wet causes them to sink. Perforated pavers on the other hand, being NOT solid, are incapable of holding the substrate in place and, in fact, allow it to ooze up through the voids between pavers, correlating with the weight that is applied to them, and the moisture content of the substrate. ![]() Solid pavers or a conventional concrete slab do a good job of "floating" on a granular substrate because the substrate stays in place, being held captive by the solid paved layer above it. But my observations have it that it actually has limited use and can often be quite disappointing, depending on the forces and conditions it is subject to. On paper, this type of paver is appealing. We're installing a driveway because we need a spot to charge an electric vehicle and another future electric vehicle. ![]() This existing swale between yards will be replaced with a river stone swale, but adds additional width to the driveway thus pushing it an additional 3'+ in front of the home. The solutions for this probably necessitate a separate post, but piping into/through the driveway bed and along side in a dry, river stone swale with overflow are the basic plans along with an overflow at the curb. A fully permeable and 15+" deep excavation for the driveway will hopefully manage this. To complicate this the planned driveway side has a significant amount of wet weather drainage from surrounding homes. Also, our home is all hardwood and I'm not confident we'll keep the stone out. To save money we've considered gravel, but no one else has it and I'm worried about winter and ongoing maintenance. The other side of the lot is a large hill that add's thousands to the cost with excavation and retaining walls. flattest) and cheapest side of the home to install, but this is also the side w/the smaller side-yard 9' setback and thus puts half of the 12' wide driveway in front of the home. The driveway is planned for the easiest (i.e. This paver style for the driveway is appealing to me though because it lessens the negative visual impact of an expanse of concrete from the proposed driveway. I like the look, but I'm not a fan of grass and remove it to landscape any chance I can. One example an experienced landscaper suggested is techo bloc aquastorm. I would love comments on artificial turf as well though have not inquired with landscapers about this. I'm concerned with winter ice, shoveling and the maintenance of grass in the summer. Some have driveways, majority of these are concrete. Anyone with direct experience installing and maintaining concrete and grass permeable pavers (turf stone, turf block, grass pavers, etc)? We are in a DC suburb just outside the beltway in a 1950's neighborhood of predominately simple, brick cape cod homes.
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